After a four year hiatus from shooting film, I was out on Coronado island the other morning before sunrise, shooting film again. It was definitely weird not seeing my shot immediately displayed on an LCD screen on the back of the camera. I felt like I was shooting blind. I didn’t even have my digital SLR as a light meter because I broke my backup tripod in the parking lot next to the beach. I mention this only because my Toyo 4 by 5 camera has no light meter. You need to carry a stand alone light meter, or use an SLR for a light meter. So with a broken backup tripod, I was then faced with shooting without a meter, although, I do admit, I already had an idea what the exposure should have been because I have shot this scene a few times, but until you see the actual chrome on a light table, you never know if you got the exposure right or not.
I picked up my film about 2 hours after dropping it off at Chrome Digital. I stood in the lobby and looked through a loupe on a light table for the first time in a long time. 4 by 5 slides, also known as “chrome” in pro photographer circles because of the word “chrome” in film names such as fujichrome, are a beautiful thing to see in person. With all the advances in digital sensors, large format film is still sharper, and contains more information than a sensor in any digital SLR on the market today. This chrome will easily scan to about 20,000 by 16,000 pixels, or 320 megapixels. Most digital cameras are now shooting between 10 and 20 megapixels, and can only produce sharp prints up to about 11 by 14. The 320 megapixel file this chrome will produce will print nicely to 60 inches or so. That is the reason why I considered using large format film again.
The image you see here was the image I took that morning from a beach on Coronodo island. My film scanner is not very good, so it does not do this gorgeous chrome justice, but it allows you to get an idea of what the image looks like. I will send this slide out to be scanned by a high quality drum scanner, and when I get it back, the resulting scan will be fine art quality. Drum scanning is the technique used by most fine art photographers to print large high quality images on light jet printers. Light jet printers use lasers to expose actual photographic paper. The paper is then processed in a similar manner as traditional photo printing. Light jet prints far surpass the quality of the traditional negative to paper exposure process because of the accuracy of the digital color control. To see such prints in person, I would suggest visiting a fine art photo gallery, like one of Peter Lik’s in Las Vegas, Nevada, or in La Jolla, California.
This one image has helped me realize that film is not dead, but it can be used as an additional tool in image creation, such as a skilled carpenter might use different kinds of hammers for different jobs. I intend to continue using digital cameras as my main image creation tool, but whenever I shoot a scene that I may want the ability to print up to 6 feet wide, I will take the same shot with my 4 by 5.
Tags: 4x5, beach, camera, Coronado, coronodo island, film, fujichrome, Large Format, sunrise, Toyo, tripod
5 Comments
They’re definitely not a replacement for each other, you’re perfectly right! Just different tools for different scenarios.
*Great shot. Outstanding balance and composition. Digital art has it merits, but trying to reinvent the wheel would be a hard task to accomplish. Roll film has always been in the main stream. Digital is simple and care free, no mess. Instant gratification only last as long a person is stimulated with something new. I get excited when I smell a roll of film or go into my dark room.
*I shoot also a 6 X 7 view camera. Its a bit slow but the result are amazing. I am like you, I scan my prints in out they are finished. I have more options Color roll film or sheet film.
*I specialize in Hand Tinting Black and White Photos the “Classic way”. I use my own 2 Zone Technique to create my Photo Art.Never computer aided in any way.
I can produce works of Art from any old and forgotten Black and White or Color negative. I have over 50,000 Color Negatives
with Color Photos that I am currently converting into Black and White Photo Art. My Photo Art is original and signed. I have been in the field over 26 years.
I agree with you on the comment about different kinds of tools for different. I used to be vehemently against Photoshop, but I realized it was silly to deny myself any creative tools that would help me express myself.
Congrats and again, look forward to seeing more photos, film or otherwise.
Great shot. I took a night shot of San Diego from that restaurant across from the airport n 2002 on chrome 35mm. I am reading your article and deciding when to break out my Crown Graphic and Schneider 150. I love to shoot large format, but I have no knowledge of availability of film and chemical, etc.
Amen to you !!!!!! I received a BS degree in Photo Science & Engineering from Rochester Institute of Technology back in the mid 60′S. Now, 40 years later, I am retiring and have decided to pick up the camera again.
I have spent many hours trying to bridge the gap between silver and digital and feel that I am FINALLY understanding the correlation between to two mediums.
I have spoken to several “Digital Photographers” and realize that one of the overriding factor in our discussion is the concept of pixels verses picture quality. They all feel as though they can successfully make a larger print than the number of pixels allow. It just isn’t right – you can’t make a silk purse out of a souse’s so to speak.
So my object, I think, has becoming quite clear – Bridge the gap between the two mediums by using large format silver (4″ X 5″) B&W negative or chrome, depending on the application, scan the imagery and then use the very large pixel count to make reasonably large (16″x 20″ or even 22″ X 34″) high resolution prints.
One of my dilemmas is how the 20,000 X 16,000 pixel image is handled by an inkjet printer. Does it reduce the number of pixels to fit the paper size or does it maintain the pixel count and reduce the pixel size. Also, what is the optimum dot per inch that the printer output should have. I’m thinking at least 1250 dpi. There is probably a pretty simple answer to these questions but I haven’t gotten there yet.
I’m still learning so any information anyone can contribute to my education will be much appreciated.
Bill
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